You took some nice photos on the Superia 400! Did you get them scanned by a lab or did you do it at home?
Thank you! Knowing me, if I tried to develop and scan film myself, I'd ruin not only the film, but the chemicals and the scanner too lol. I sent it to development and scanning to the only lab in my city that's still doing it. At some point though I'd like to try mailing film to a lab in Moscow to see if there will be any difference.
Well, whatever lab you're using seemed to do a pretty decent job with the scans so keep doing what you're doing
So long as resumption succeeds it, a hiatus is fine, and nothing deserving misery. Your photos look good, too; you've a novel eye for composition. I haven't shot on film since the mid-aughts, though I will eventually. BTW, did you see "Return of the King" in that theater?
Thanks! Yes, I did watch the third part this Wednesday in the same theater with the same friend, and it made want to see the first part as well, even though usually I totally don't like watching movies.
Woah... for some reason this page makes my monitor beep real loud. Not even my headphones, just a loud tone from my actual screen. Weirdest thing I've seen.
I can relate; I have this issue, although more often than that. I'm still figuring out how best to deal with it.
generally all 35mm color film will already have a DX code on it. Certainly the ones distributed by Kodak and Fuji, I wouldn't worry about not having a DX code on the canister unless you're buying more niche films.
I actually thought of it when looking for color reversal films; apparently only color negative ones have the codes.
Oh okay, I didn't consider slide films. Although, my advice would be to check the manual for your point and shoot. On mine, I believe if there is no DX code found, it'll default to 100ISO settings, and therefore if you were to use a 100ISO slide film, you'd be perfectly fine. Another thing is that even if you shot a 200ISO color negative film at 100ISO, you'd overexpose it by one stop.
Color negative film will handle a stop (or two) of overexposure, generally, from what I understand. Slide film is a lot less forgiving, though, but if you found that your camera defaults to a certain ISO setting, I suppose you could buy slide film with that ISO and shoot it with no issues.
The manual says, "ISO 100/200, 400 with auto setting, DX code". Rather vague, as it doesn't mention defaulting to any value. ψ(._. )>. Some forum topics are saying that the camera should default to it's lowest possible ISO anyway. Apparently it's also possible to make your own DX code as a sticker. I think I'll experiment with it when I stumble upon a non-coded film. Thank you.